Growing Bulbs:Naturalizing
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Naturalizing spring-flowering bulbs
Grow bulbs without creating planting beds -- even in the lawn.
Flower bulbs are perennial by nature. The term perennial refers to a plant that will come back on its on, for at least several years with the need for re-planting. But for any plant to perform as a perennial the local conditions must be right. Tulips for example, come from the high mountains of eastern Turkey and the steppes of southern Russia. They like cold winters and hot dry summers. Most of the areas of North America where it is cold enough to grow tulips also have, by tulip standards, moist summers.
Some bulbs come back very well in North America, others do less well and some don't do well at all for more than one season. But there are many bulbs, and even some tulips, that make good perennializers or naturalizers. The Dutch consider a bulb that comes back for at least three years a perennial bulb. If it is a bulb that will not only come back, but will establish itself and multiply, that bulb is said to naturalize well.
For a list of bulbs that naturalize or perennialize well The Best Bulbs for Naturalizing
Naturalizing Basics
To naturalize or perennialize, bulbs also need to be planted in conditions and at locations in the landscape where they can remain undisturbed without the need for the foliage to be prematurely removed. It is important for bulbs to retain their foliage after bloom until the leaves die back naturally, which takes about six weeks after the flowers have faded.
Crocus, for example, will thrive for years if planted in manicured grass with somewhat dry soil. But the foliage must be allowed to develop fully. The grass should not be mowed until the crocus leaves have died back. Even though the grass may still be dormant, there is always the urge to get out the mower and to cut off the foliage immediately after flowering is over, but this should be avoided. The foliage must remain for the bulbs to re-charge themselves through photosynthesis. Before planting in a lawn, it's also important to consider fertilizer. If this lawn is tended in a manner that requires lots of high nitrogen lawn fertilizer, find another place for the crocuses. Too much nitrogen will stunt the flowering process of the bulbs. You'll get lots of nice green crocus foliage, but no flowers.
Once flowering is over, the bulb plant's foliage develops more rapidly and often seeds are formed. For the majority of bulbs like Chionodoxa and Scilla it is important that they are allowed to mature and ripen naturally, for when distributed in moist rich soil they will germinate freely and rapidly enlarge the colony.
Locations
There are many locations that can successfully accommodate naturalized or perenialized flower bulbs. Ideally, plantings should be of sufficient size to make a viable display and situated in positions where they can be easily viewed from any angle. Large grassy areas are especially well-suited. In addition, broad mixed borders and shrub plantings all lend themselves to permanent bulb plantings. A wooded area is a great choices for naturalized bulbs where they can be planted to look like Mother Nature herself put them there. Great choices for heavily wooded areas are the following shade tolerant varieties: Allium ursinum (ramson), Anemone nemorosa (wood anemone), Anemone ranunculoides, Erythronium dens-canis (dog's-tooth violet), Corydalis cava (bulbous corydalis), Corydalis solida, Arum italicum, Fritillaria meleagris (snakeshead fritillaria), Galanthus nivalis (common snowdrop), Hyacinthoides non-scripta (bluebell), and Ornithogalum umbellatum (common Star of Bethlehem).
In lightly wooded areas with lots of deciduous trees, the choices widen, with daffodils being a true classic. Remember that in early spring, the leaves of deciduous trees have not yet grown in. You have more sunny spots to plant in then might be apparent in fall!
Preparing the Soil
Naturalized bulbs will thrive in most soil types. The important thing is the the soil drains well. The Dutch like to say "bulbs don't like wet feet." Standing water can rot bulbs. If the soil is very heavy clay, then it will need to have some compost or peat moss mixed in to help it drain. Avoid planting at the bottom of slopes and hills or other places water can collect.
Fertilizing
Flower bulbs that are planted for only one season of bloom don't need fertilizer. Bulbs, after all, are natural food storage devices. But for long-term blooming year after year, it's important to provide food so the bulbs can regenerate. Bulbs planted for naturalizing or perennializing should be fertilized when planting, and then again each fall. The easiest way is to use a controlled release bulb food. When planting, just sprinkle some in the hole and mix it in a bit. If you've planted a large area and this isn't practical, you can scatter the fertilizer on top after planting. This is called top dressing, and should be also be done each fall. Bulbs can be grown well with organic methods too. You mix in compost or well rotted cow manure when planting, and top dress again with the same each fall.
You will often hear that it's good to add bone meal when planting bulbs, but this is no longer recommended. Today's bone meal smell just like bones, to dogs, who go crazy digging in spots where bonemeal has been applied. Also, the new methods of bone meal preparations rob it of much of its nutrients.
It's also possible to fertilize naturalized in late spring, when the blossoms are beginning to fade, but the foliage is growing vigorously. In this instance use a water soluble fast release fertilizer. Without feeding, flower bulbs go steadily into decline after their first year, very few continuing from year to year.
For a list of bulbs that naturalize or perennialize well The Best Bulbs for Naturalizing
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